Feliz Navidad de Bolivia

The mountains around the city light up with color during the sunset

Let’s see where to start catching you up… The weekend before this past one we had a Christmas dinner with the Church.  It was a great time.  It was a formal dress which always makes things a lot more fun.  The children put on a show for us singing “Mi Burrito Sabanero” for us, which was very amusing.  We enjoyed a nice meal followed by a great time of dancing.  I was shocked at some of the people breaking out some 60-70’s dance moves.  I had only ever seen these in museums or on old movies…  We wrapped up all of our work in the external projects.  To celebrate me and a few people played paintball.  I told them I had a little experience but it had been years since I had played.  They seemed pretty confident so we split up in to teams.  After the first 5 games I was yet to be shot.  I had massacred everyone.  I think one game even lasted less than 1 minute.  We played I think a total of 8 or 9 games and I only got shot once.  It was a lucky shot that curved and nailed me in the wrist.  We all had a great time and I’m sure we will play again.  Next time I will try to take it easy on them….

 

Oswaldo, Rodrigo, and I at our Christmas Dinner with the Church

Me about to get on the bus to Sorata

This past weekend a handful of volunteers and I (6 in all) went on a little trip to the small village of Sorata.  Sorata has about 2500 people in population and much history.  In the colonial days Sorata provided a link to the Gold fields and rubber plantations of Beni and to the Amazon Basin.  In 1791 an indigenous leader named Tupac Amaru seiged the town by constructing dikes above the city to catch the runoff from the slopes of Illampu (the huge snow covered mountain that overlooks the town.  When they were full they opened the floodgates and washed the town away… We left work on Friday evening and rushed home to get our stuff in time to make it to the bus to Sorata.  When we got to the bus stop it was perfect timing.  We just happened to get the last 6 seats on the last bus to Sorata.  We left out of the city through El Alto and off through the Altiplano heading north.  Not far out of Sorata I noticed that a bit of fog began to set in and we began winding down a mountain road.  For 45 minutes my eyes were glued out the window looking for the road.  Sometimes the fog was so thick that the road would completely disappear.  Luckily the driver slowed down and we made our way around the mountain sides.  I found myself praying for the driver to get us there safely.  All you could see were guard rails and the white lines painted on the road as we went from one line to another all the way down.  Finally off in the distance I could see the lights from Sorata cutting through the dense fog.  We got off the bus about 10 o’clock and made our way towards the town square so that we could find a place to stay for the night.  Eventually we found a hotel named San Cristobal.  We asked the owner how much it was per night and he told us 20b a night (about 3 dollars) per person.  It sounded like a good deal so we agreed and went up to the room.  It wasn’t much for your eyes but it was a place to lay your head out of the rain.  We eventually fell asleep anticipating the next day.

 

Our amazing Hotel

The Plaza in the middle of Town

We were awakened by many noises the following morning coming through our window from the road below.  Apparently, our room overlooked a small street market.  We eventually got up and ate tomato and onion sandwiches for breakfast.  We then left the hotel to see what the small town looked like in the day light.  It is a beautiful little place surrounded by green mountains on all sides with a river on both sides of the town.  After exploring we made our plans for the day.  We decided that we would hike to the top of an ancient sacred Ayamara mountain that overlooked the town.  We filled up a backpack with some water and fruit and began heading towards the mountain.  We first had to cross the river named San Christobal between the town and the mountain.  The river had a pretty strong current because of the runoff from Illampu and because it is the rainy season.  We found a bridge that is currently under construction but sufficient enough to cross the river.  It was basically just missing some safety rails and a few boards on the way across.  After we had crossed the river we began to decide which path we would take to make our way up.  As we climbed we winded along fields of vegetables and steep ravines.  We continued to climb, fending off some dogs with rocks as we made our way.  We eventually came to a small village about half way up the mountain.  There we met an old local named Victor.  He had lived there all his life (80 years he said).  We stood there and talked to him for a good 20 minutes about some history of the city and about things he had done in his life.  He was a very nice and a pleasure to talk to.  We realized this was a pattern as everyone we met was very nice and willing to take the time to talk with us and point us in the right direction.  After victor got us on the right trail we continued climbing up and up winding around the mountain.  The view was getting better and better as we got higher and higher.  Finally we had made it to the top.  It only took about 3 and half hours to get there.  It was a great view of the town and all the valleys and mountains around.  We were slightly disappointed that we weren’t able to see the giant mountain of Illampu since it was shrouded by clouds.  We eventually sat down to rest and eat some bananas before we made our descent.

 

The Mountain We climbed to the top of

Me posing on the bridge with the River in the background

On our way down we were exhausted and still a little bit hungry.  We decided that we would stop in Victor’s village to find a tienda to buy a snack.  When we got there we didn’t see Victor so we found a lady walking down the road.  She said she knew of a tienda so we walked with her down the road.  As we were walking by her aunt’s house she said that she was probably taking some fresh bread out of the oven if we wanted some.  It sounded good to us so we stopped to buy some bread.  Her aunt came out and greeted us. She was a little lady with many wrinkles and white hair.  When she smiled she only had one visible tooth which made her smile quite interesting.  She ran inside to bring us out some fresh pan de trigo (whole grain bread).  The bread was still warm as we bit into it.  It was some of the best bread I had had since I have been here in Bolivia.  After saying farewell, we continued on our way back down to the river where we relaxed for a few minutes on the side soaking our sore feet in the cold water.  We then went back up to the main square of the town where we had a small snack.  Since our hotel was “locked” we decided to go to the opposite side of town to chill by the other river.  While we were sitting there some random Bolivian tourists came down with their instruments.  After talking to them for a few minutes they began playing some traditional Bolivian music.  They were pretty good.  They were playing and singing and we joined in as well.  Then Mathias and Felix played a few songs on the guitar and we sang along for them.  It was fun and relaxing.  Finally after a couple hours had past we decided to head back up to the main square to put our stuff in the hotel and then go find something to eat.  We went to a small little restaurant that we had noticed earlier in the day.  We were the only people in there and the guy looked excited to see us.  We all ordered the Pique a lo Macho because he said it was really good and it is my favorite Bolivian dish.  We waited for maybe 30 minutes or so until he brought out our food.  As we were eating I realized that he wasn’t lying because it was the Best Pique Macho I have had as of now here in Bolivia.  After dinner we went back to the hotel to get some sleep because we were all drained from the 6 hours of hiking.

 

Beautiful Corn Fields

Sitting by Rio de San Cristobal

We woke up the following day and had some onion and avocado sandwiches for breakfast.  We got ready and packed a bag for the day.  Our plan was to go to La Gruta de San Pedro.  It is a cave that goes into the side of a mountain.  So we negotiated with a few taxis to get us there.  We set off out of town down a muddy road from the rain the night before.  We winded around mountain sides for about 20 or so minutes with some of the most beautiful scenery.  Eventually we go to a little building with a tienda and some picnic tables.  The taxi driver pointed up the side of a mountain to where the entrance to the cave was.  We made our way up to a little building at the entrance.  We eventually negotiated the entrance fee which took about 15 minutes and then we entered.  It was amazing at how hot and humid it was in the cave.  I had to walk hunched over for a little bit before I could finally reach the main part of the cave where the ceiling was very high.  We could hear a few bats hanging around in the nooks and crannies.  There was a small lagoon in the cave where it is possible to swim (if you are brave enough).  We continued to make our way to the very back of the cave where it narrows down to a little tunnel where you have to crawl to get to the end.  It was pretty interesting thought not the best or coolest cave I’ve been in.  After we were done viewing the cave we made our way back out.  We decided that the best way to see the scenery was to make the 12km walk back to Sorata.  It was a great idea, even though it was exhausting.  The mountains were beautiful as we slowly made our way back.  There were smaller villages scattered off in the distance between mountains with nothing but little dirt roads and paths connecting them.  Right before we got back to Sorata we stopped alongside the road where we had a nice view of the town through the mountains.  We ate some apples, mangos, and again some onion and avocado sandwiches.  After are short rest break we finished the hike and returned to the hotel to get our stuff.  We then made our way back to the bus stop to buy tickets and wait for the next available bus home.  Eventually it came and we made our way back to La Paz.  I think the most amazing thing about the trip is it only cost me about 20-25 dollars for everything including transportation, food and the hotel.

 

Us entering into the Caves

Standing by the Lake in the cave

In the back of the cave

The beautiful scenery from the walk back to Sorata

View of Sorata through the mountains

Christmas Eve Justus and I were invited to a lunch with a couple of my families from my project at the house of Padre Jose.  We had a great lunch and then Padre Jose gave the families some gifts.  The kids were so excited to receive some presents for Christmas.  The parents looked very grateful as well to see their kids so happy.  I was surprised too when I received a gift.  I definitely was not expecting that.  Afterwards, Justus and I returned to work.  Right now we are working in Casa Esperanza which is the boys orphanage that the foundation has.  We are working there until February when the external projects open back up after Christmas break.  It is a lot of fun because basically we are just hanging out and playing with the boys.  The past two days we made Christmas cookies, played soccer and played games in the Sala de Juegos.  I’ve played so much Chess and Foosball the past couple days.  Last night, I stayed there until 11 o’clock with the boys watching movies and eating dinner.  I think I’m really going to enjoy spending a month with them.  After work we came home and all the volunteers who were home ate cookies, drank tea, and sang Christmas songs until 1:30 in the morning.  It was a goodtime.

 

Padre Jose talking to the kids and giving them presents

I hope that everyone back at home has a Merry Christmas.  I miss you all and am sad that I can’t be with you all during these Christmas days.  I hope you all have a great holiday season.  I love you all.  Espero que ustedes tengan un Feliz Navidad y Prospero Año.

Feliz Navidad