THIS IS GABI!!! |
Day 6: Ushuaia, Argentina
We
began our descent into the Ushuaia airport a little after 8 in the
morning. Ushuaia is the Southernmost
city in the world (not to far from Antartica). The sun was just beginning to rise and as a
looked out the window of the plane, all I could see was “COLD”. It was snowing and everything was white. Once of the plane, we got a taxi and made our
way to the city center. It was the first
metered taxi I had been in while in South America, and man was it
expensive. We really had no idea of what
we were going to do in this part of the continent, so we made our way to the
information center to see what our options were. There seemed to be many interesting things
but they all seemed pretty expensive.
So next, we looked for the cheapest
hostel that we could find. We found one
named Hostel Cruz del Sur. It was a
pretty cool place to hang out. Free computers to get in the internet, a
kitchen, nice beds and oh yea AMAZING SHOWERS with HOT WATER!! So we began doing some research and figuring
out what we would end up doing down here in the south of the south. We decided that even though we had just
gotten here we were going to leave on a bus at 4 in the morning and begin our
journey into southern Chile in hopes of making it to Torres Del Paine National
Park. Seemed like a good idea… So for
the remainder of the day, we just walked around the harbor and taking some
photos while freezing our butts off in the snow. Then we did a bit of grocery shopping and
made dinner before turning in for the night.
So yea there is snow everywhere |
Ushuaia, The Edge of The World |
Coolest Hostel Ever!!! |
Crazy attack birds of the south |
I liked this photo, Stranded boat in the harbor |
Day 7: Buses – Strait of Magellan
4am
came very early. We packed our things
and went to the bus terminal to catch our bus to Rio Grande, Argentina. We slept most of the way there and arrived
before sunrise. Me and Matthias were
hungry so we walked around the sleepy town looking for something to eat. Nothing was open. We were trying our best not to fall down on
the icy streets and sidewalk when we noticed a man walking into to a glowing
light. We hurried over in hopes that
there might be food. It was a
bakery! We quickly entered and began
buying all kinds of amazing goodies. We
then had to hurry back to the bus terminal because soon our bus would be
leaving for Punta Arenas.
The bus
winded along the Atlantic Coastline for a bit.
Next thing you know we were crossing the Chilean border. It is a major crime to carry fruits or
certain other foods into Chile from other countries…. I asked the guy if my apples were ok and he
said no and took them. Well, Sonja had
some pears in her bag and tried to get them through the scanner. They caught her. We feared that she was going to get arrested
and that we would have to continue the trip without her. So we pretended not to know her and made our
way back to the bus where we could wait and see what happened. Luckily for Sonja, the person who had to sign
off on the situation wasn’t there so the allowed her to get back on the bus
where we quickly made our getaway.
Next
was a huge achievement of my life. We
were about to cross the Strait of Magellan on a ferry. I think I may have been the most excited
person there. It amazed me to see the
guys load all the 18-wheelers and cars and our bus onto the ferry. We and Matthias pitched some ideas about
making a video game about loading a ferry.
Once to the other side, we loaded up in the bus and continued our way to
Punta Arenas, Chile. We quickly booked
our next bus trip to Puerto Natales, where we were hoping to figure out more
about getting to Torres Del Paine. Since
we had a 2 hour wait, we decided to go to the grocery store and buy some fruit
since all of ours was confiscated. It
was dinner time so we then went to a little restaurant and found us some hot
bowls of Paila Marina.
We
finally got on the bus for the final leg of this day long trip to Puerto
Natales. At first the bus was nice and
warm. Then it continued getting warmer
and warmer until it had turned into a hot and miserable oven. There was no way we could get any sleep and
if I were to take off anymore clothes I would have been naked. I was relieved when I could finally see the
lights of Puerto Natales off in the distance.
Once in the terminal, we began asking about buses to the Park, but since
it was the off season for tourism, there would be no buses for 2 days. So we walked through the town looking for a
cheap hostel. It was really cold and
there was snow everywhere. Finally we
found a room and turned in for the night.
Welcome to the Strait of Magellan |
I'm at the Strait of Magellan!!!! |
Ferry on The Strait of Magellan |
Another Paila Marina!!! |
Day 8: Puerto Natales, Chile
We
slept in until about 10:30am. It was
very cold and had gotten down to 18 degrees Fahrenheit last night. The water in our room froze and had to use a
bathroom in someone else’s room down the hall.
After eating some fruits and bread for breakfast, we went out to see
what we could plan for our trip.
Everywhere that we went, people told us that there was no transportation
to the park since it was the off season and that the roads were covered in
snow. Also they said that snow was waist deep in some places around the
park. That’s not what we had been
hearing from everyone else southwards who said that there was no snow in the
park…. Finally we found someone who was
willing to help us plan our trip even though she thought we were crazy.
We planned out a 6 day loop of hiking around
the park. We rented tents, sleeping
mats, and a cooking kit to help us survive.
We almost didn’t rent the cooking set but I was able to talk the others
into it. We scheduled our transportation
in a private vehicle and then went to do our grocery shopping for the
trip. We would have to take all of our
food with us since there are no stores and most of the facilities on the park
were closed for the winter. The grocery
store didn’t have bags, so we talked them into letting us borrow the shopping
cart to take everything back to the hostel.
We then relaxed and cooked some dinner before packing our packs and
going to sleep. It would be our last
night in a room for 5 nights. I found
myself praying that we would not freeze to death on this trip because, well, IT
WAS VERY COLD!!!
Day 9: Parque National Torres Del Paine, Chile
We woke
up early in the morning and stumbled out of the hostel to meet our driver who
was going to give us a lift to the park and hopefully pick us up when we were
done. The ride through the valleys was
breath taking. The sun was beginning to
rise behind the mountains and everything was indeed covered by snow. Even the road was solid white, with no
pavement showing at all. It was about a
2 hour drive but it was amazing because the car had an amazing heater. Our driver (Guido) was actually a tour guide
so he gave us some advice and told us to call him if anything changed. We had no way to contact him so we just told
him we would see him in 6 days. We left
Hosteleria Los Torres around 11am and began our trek towards where we would
camp for our first night. It was a little
cold and everything was covered in snow.
The mountains were so beautiful.
Eventually, after trying to stay on the trail, we arrived at Lake
Nordenskjold which was full of picture perfect views. The water was an amazing bluish color and it
was surrounded by snow peaked mountains.
I could have stayed there for hours.
At least the next 6 hours of our
journey, involved trekking through the snow alongside the lake. Oh and did I mention that neither of us were
prepared for trekking in the snow. I was wearing a pair of worn out tennis
shoes which the soles were coming off and were worn slick on the bottom…. Finally we reached our campsite. At this time of the year the days were only
about 10 hours long, so you had to walk as much as you could in the daylight
and then prepare for a blistering cold night.
We were all still in awe of the beauty that we had just witnessed over
the past 17km of walking. Our first
night we were going to stay in Campo Italiano.
It was deserted so we decided to pitch our tents inside the cooking shed
for some added warmth and protection. We
cooked some tomato soup (Tomato flavored water) for dinner. Next we were beginning to get very cold, so
we took off our wet socks and pants and climbed into our sleeping bags. It was still snowing a bit outside and it
continued to get colder and colder. I
would have to say it was a miserable night.
It was so cold (well below freezing), the ground hurt, and I kept
getting woken up by the sound of avalanches.
Road to Parque National Torres Del Paine |
Starting our Trek!! |
Can't believe the scenery |
Action Shot! |
So Beautiful |
Some Trails were solid ice |
Day 10: Torres Del Paine
I was
so happy to finally see daylight because there was no way I could lay there in
that tent any longer. We got up and had
pan con queso for breakfast before beginning our trek into Valle Frances. We heard that the valley was closed but Guido
said it would be ok. We began our walk
up the valley and were automatically taken by the views of the sun rising. The snow began to get deeper and deeper as we
trekked on. Some places were over knee
deep but it typically averaged around 10 inches deep. My knee had began hurting me early on and I
knew it was a matter of time before I would be hobbling along. The deep snow really took it out of me. Pero, Vale la pena! It was extremely beautiful and we managed to
see quite a few avalanches coming down the other side of the valley. Good thing we weren’t on that side… the further we trekked on the more difficult
it got and we knew that we would have to turn around eventually and make our way
back down so that we could make I t the next camp where we would stay the night. So after about 2.5 hours of walking we
decided to turn back because the trail was becoming harder and harder to find
and it was too difficult without the proper gear.
My
sneakers were pretty much the worst shoes for the hike. Basically I had no traction whatsoever and
fell about a bajillion times. With my
knee hurting every step I took, it was actually easier to fall down and slide
down certain parts of the mountain on my back.
I was in agony basically.
Eventually, I caught up with the rest back at Campo Italiano where we
sat down and had lunch. We collected our
gear and then made our way around the lake to the next camp at Paine Grande,
where we set up our tent for another freezing cold night. It was a pretty nice place and they allowed
us to use their kitchen for cooking some food and heating up some water for
tea. Also we got pretty lucky because
they allowed us to chill in a room that had a wood stove to warm up and dry out
all our soggy shoes and clothes. We
walked about 18km this day.
There
were actually a handful of people staying at the camp this night. There were 2 Americans from California who
came down to do a bit of trekking. Also
there was 2 Chileans, an Asian guy with his guide, and Jorge a park
ranger. We all sat around talking about
traveling and about life for a long time.
I think we were all avoiding going back out into the cold for as long as
possible. So we finally made our way
back out to the tent around 10 or 11 and settled in hoping we wouldn’t freeze.
Sun rising, lighting up mountain peaks |
Canned Clams SO GOOD!!!! |
All i could think was WOWWW |
Camping arrangements |
Day 11: Torres Del
Paine
We got
up in the morning and made our way into the lounge where I immediately began
working on getting a fire started. We
scrounged a little breakfast together and began to eat. The others slowly began to make their way
into the room. The Asian fella and his
guide decided to give us their leftovers because they had too much. We pounced like wild dogs. After eating our fill, we prepared for a long
hike to Glacier Grey. It was about a
24km hike there and back. We left our
belongings at the camp and only packed our day packe because we would be
returning to the same campsite for that night as well. We made a quick pace since we didn’t have our
heavy packs, which was a great relief for my knee. After a bit of walking we came along side a
lake and in this lake there were many blue icebergs floating about. I had never seen an iceberg before and I was
shocked at how blue these were. I mean
like a deep dark blue.
We
continued hiking until we could see Glacier Grey off in the distance. We weren’t there yeyt but we could already
tell how massive it was. It seemed as if
there was no end. It took us about 2
more hours of walking before we actually reached the face of the glacier and
man was it blue. SO BLUE. We climbed up onto a small cliff where we
could sit and stare at this marvelous piece of ice and sit on some warm
tea. The clouds above slowly lifted and
it was possible to see all the mountains that bordered the glacier and to see
how full they were of snow. Fue muy
Impressionante!!!! So with the day halfway over we turned around and made the 4
hour hike back to camp. I ended up with
a few blisters but nothing major. Just
drained them and I was ready to keep going.
We made
our way back inside by the fire where we ate dinner and sat around with our
fellow travelers talking about everything under the sun. It was pretty amazing to sit around and talk
to total strangers in the middle of nowhere.
I think that may have been one of the best things about the trip. Other than all the amazingly beautiful
nature. Eventually, we went back out
into the cold and crawled into our tents.
We knew we had a short hike the following day so we had no rush to get
going in the morning.
Day 12: Torres Del Paine
The
night was extremely windy and it rained a bit.
It woke me up many times during the night. I felt like I barely slept at all any of this
trip so far. We finally came out of the
tents around 8am and made our way in to start up the fire. There was no wood so I made my way outside to
find some firewood and get it going. So
we again prepared breakfast and again were invited to have some of the Asian
guys breakfast. Turns out he was from
Singapore. He was a pretty interesting
guy and I wish I could have gotten to know him a bit more but he kept more to
himself. We started the day off very
lazily and just relaxed and slept on the table by the fire until noon. We then packed up our tents and belongings
and said farewell to all of our new friends.
We
began our hike up a steep mountain alongside the lake on our way to the
campsite called Carretas, which was only about a 3 hour 10km hike. We saw a very rare deer and also many wild
horses in the meadows. Once we arrived
to camp we were again the only ones there.
So we prepared our tents and relaxed before it got dark. We took out our little stove and made some
mushroom soup. This day marked the one year anniversary of the day when I first
met all the Germans at our house in La Paz.
It was sad knowing that soon it would all be over.
Chillin' in the common room after breakfast |
Patagonia Flag with a Patagonian Backdrop |
Rare Deer |
Wild Horses, Notice the ones far off to the left... |
Day 13: Torres Del Paine
The
night had been another freezing cold night, but by then had just been another
normal night. I realized that I hadn’t
had a shower in over a week now and I was beginning to smell funky. We had a quick breakfast and packed up our gear
before trudging out another 18km before bedding down at Camping Pehóe where we
would camp that night. By now the
scenery was their but we didn’t notice as much since we were just focused on
getting to our next checkpoint and taking our heavy packs off. Turns out it was very expensive to camp there
but it was the only place around to camp.
We set up camp and then hiked up to Mirrador Condor. There were no condors like we had hoped but
it was an amazingly beautiful panorama of what we had already hiked the days
before. This day was the official half
day of our GABI trip, so once on top, we celebrated with a snickers bar. After soaking it all in, we made our way back
down to the campsite. I attempted to
start a fire in the pit hoping it would put off some heat but the wood was damp
and it began to drizzle. So it seemed as
if we would spend our final night in the wilderness freezing again. So we again warmed up some soup under our
shelter and then went to sleep.
Day 14: Torres Del Paine
This
sounds like a reoccurring theme but the night was freezing cold. At some point during the night, the drizzle
turned into snow and everything was covered in a light white dusting. We ate a little bit of bread and set off on
the final leg of our hike. Our goal was Pudeto where Guido would meet us at 2
in the evening. We arrived in about 2
hours but the whole time it was snowing and drizzling rain. We set our things under an awning and began
to hike up a trail towards the waterfall because we had plenty of time before
Guido would show up. The waterfall was
very powerful and it got me wondering how amazing Iguazu Falls in Brazil would
be. We would be there in just under a
week. After staring at the waterfall we
made our way back to Pudeto to wait on Guido.
On the way back we saw a grey fox hunting mice. I’m not sure if he noticed us but we
basically just watched him hunt for about 15 minutes.
We got
back to Pudeto and sat around waiting for Guido. This day we walked 11km, so in total for the
6 days we did right around 100km. A guy
who was there invited us in to have coffee.
It was funny because just 10 minutes earlier Sonja had said that she
wished he would invite us in for coffee.
So we went in and had coffee with the nice old guy and got warm. Eventually, Guido showed up and we said
farewell to the old man and went to load up our gear. We slept the whole way back to Puerto
Natales. Once back, we said so long to
Guido and went to return our gear that we had rented. We then purchased some bus tickets to Punta
Arenas and grabbed some groceries. While
in the bus station I decided it was timed to retire the pants I was wearing
because I had been wearing them for the past 15 days and they were getting a
bit holy, not to mention they stunk. So
I took them off, rolled them up, and gently tucked them into a trashcan. We arrived late night to Punta Arenas and
walked to a hostel where we would stay a couple nights. It was a nice little place but the best part
was I finally was able to shower. And
man was I dirty. I had to wash myself
multiple times to get clean.
Large Waterfall. I stood at the edge so you could get a size reference |
Grey fox hunting mice. See the tail hanging out his mouth? |
Yep its and Emu |
This is called a "Guanaco". very common in Patagonia |
Day 15: Punta Arenas, Chile
After
breakfast, we went to the harbor to find penguins. Matthias really wanted to see penguins while
we were in the south and after a while I was eager to see them as well. So we went out in search but were without
luck. We did see this interesting bird
that resembled a penguin but it wasn’t an actual penguin. So we continued to walk around the city until
we stumbled across the main square. We
were trying to figure out why there were so many military people and police
around. Apparently it was some special
day and the military was having a special march with music and formations. It was interesting to watch as they raised
the flag and sung the Chilean National Anthem before marching out of the square
and down the street.
Afterwards,
we walked across the city and went to the same restaurant we had been to before
to eat another Paila Marina with clams.
I was definitely taking advantage of all the fresh seafood I could
manage to eat while we were near the sea and could get it fresh. After eating we went to find a internet café where
we could inform our families that we were still alive and also let the hostel
in Ushuaia know we would be back the next evening. We went and did a bit of grocery shopping and
then returned to the hostel to get some sleep.
Day 16: Punta Arenas, Chile – Ushuaia, Argentina
We woke
up and had breakfast before getting on to our bus that would take us to Rio
Grande and then finally Ushuaia. I’ll
spare you many of the details since this day was basically the same as day 7
but in reverse. We crossed the Strait of
Magellan again and then the border of Chile into Argentina. We arrived back in Ushuaia around 9:30pm and
directly headed to Hostel Cruz del Sur to get our rooms for the night. We then went out and walked around the city
looking at what it had to offer before heading back to our beds.
Day 17: Ushuaia, Argentina
In the
morning we took a short bus ride to “Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego”. It was only 12 kilometers from the city so it
didn’t take long at all. After arriving,
we soon realized that it didn’t even compare to Torres del Paine. We walked around following some interesting
tourists for a while, but it wasn’t very exciting. But then, we took a trail alongside the lake
that goes towards the Chilean Border. It
was an old untouched forest with many dead trees laying and decomposing on the
forest floor covered in mosses. It was a
little ERIE, but pretty cool to experience.
Eventually, Felix and I arrived to the border of Chile where there was a
sign that said not to cross. So, like
responsible people, we crossed to take some cool photos. We then went back to catch the bus on its way
to the city. Matthias stayed in the park
a little longer so we used the opportunity to go around and look for a birthday
present that we could give him the following week. Afterwards, we made our way back to the
hostel and hung out before going to sleep.
Cool Forest in Tierra del Fuego |
Same Forest |
Strattling the Chilean-Argentinean border |
What does it say??? |
Day 18: Ushuaia, Argentina
This
would be our final full day in Southern South America. Our goal was to conserve a little bit of our
money so that we would be able to have some when we arrived in Brazil. Plus, we were pretty exhausted from all the
traveling we had been doing lately, so a nice chill day was within reason. Basically, we did just that. After breakfast,
we just chilled around the hostel preparing for Brazil and getting our packs
ready to leave in the morning. I began
getting a little bored, so I began working in the hostel, varnishing new beds
for the other hostel they were planning on opening up soon. In return, they gave me a discount on my room
expenses. I kept receiving job offers to
stay and work for a while but it was all of a sudden. I felt like I needed more time to think about
it, and now after thinking about it I ask myself why I didn’t just stay for a
while longer…
At 1pm, we went down to the harbor to catch
the boat for our harbor and Beagle Channel tour. It was really fun. First on the tour, we went to see the Sea
lions, which was epic because the males are HUGE and have like 12 babies mamas. But they did smell pretty rank! Next, we cruised over to see the lighthouse
(farro), which was extremely beautiful.
We then went to an island in the channel where we were able to get off
and walk around for a bit and take photos.
The first mate, who I think may have had a crush on Sonja, let her drive
the boat. Everyone feared for their
lives!!! We were scrambling around the
boat searching for life jackets and safety equipment preparing for the
inevitable. Thankfully, we finally made
it back safely to shore.
Big poppa with his babie's mamas |
I think they are ugly. Cool... but ugly.... |
NOT PENGUINS |
Light House in the Beagle Channel |
Sun going down behind Ushuaia |
S.O.S.... Sonja is driving!!!! |
For
dinner we went out in search of a restaurant that had King Crab. We found one that had a tank in the front
with live crabs that you could pick just like at Red Lobster. These crabs were GIGANTIC! I had never seen crabs of this size in my
life. They were bigger than most household cats or small dogs. I ordered the Cetolla al Parmeseano. It was very delightful and I was stuffed to
the brim. We ended the evening with a
slow walk around the city and then back to the hostel where we settled in for
our final night in Patagonia.
King Crabs |